After you decide which path to take and all's back together fill the whole system with only distilled water (and whatever Nalcool is required). You'll get 10 yrs. or more out of your cooling system without repeat scale. Keep some in your engine room and only use distilled for topping off.
DD 6-71 Overheats
| Author | Comment | ||
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 Unregistered(d) |
One last thought | ||
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Posts: 0 (04/06/04 06:01:13) |
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Unregistered(d) |
We're talking about the RAW WATER SIDE | ||
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Posts: 0 (04/06/04 12:02:26) |
.... and you won't get 10 years
 More like one - or maybe a bit more - before a repeat is required. Especially down here in Florida. |
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traveler45c(d) |
What about the fresh water side? | ||
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Posts: 124 (04/07/04 05:47:28) |
Do you think this Trac product would do well flushing out the fresh water side?
G |
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Unregistered(d) |
Don't know.... | ||
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Posts: 0 (04/07/04 05:57:53) |
.... and I don't know how safe it would be for the engine's seals internally either.
On 92s, you have O-rings sealing the liners from the bore. Compromise those and you're rebuilding the motor. There ARE de-scaling products for the fresh water side that the manufacturers will stand behind for this use. I would select one of those. |
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traveler45c(d) |
Trac... | ||
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Posts: 124 (04/07/04 06:15:44) |
Thanks again. I'll take your advice and give the HD product a try. My port 871 is running about 190 @ 2000RPM. I don't like that!
More questions for you: To neutralize, should I flush the raw water side with water & baking soda? Or just neutralize the diluted Phosphoric before I get rid of it? G |
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Unregistered(d) |
Won't hurt.... | ||
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Posts: 0 (04/07/04 11:37:47) |
.... to flush with some baking soda in that water.
Just grab a second bucket, dissolve some baking soda in the water, and flush it through a few times. This assumes you can't just reconnect the hoses and crank up the engine for some reason. If you can, it'll be flushed real good within a few minutes - those raw water pumps REALLY move the water. |
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Walter Pereira |
flushing Trac | ||
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Posts: 100 (04/11/04 15:45:05) |
Re: My experience with TRAC Barnacle Buster.... I followed the instructions to the letter and as previously stated the results were excellent. I am not a chemist, so I can't say that the Home Depot product is the same or not but I wouldn't doubt it. Generic products are quite common. Regarding the rinsing after use,,,, it's really very simple. Just reinstall a new impeller and re-connect your hoses then open the raw water seacock and fire it up -- easy rinse...
If anyone tries either process (HD or Trac or other) please post your results... P.S. I really appreciate this site for information.. Walt |
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Unregistered(d) |
The big deal.... | ||
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Posts: 0 (04/11/04 16:29:43) |
.... with most of these sorts of things is that you get the GEAR COOLER doing them.
See, on most of these boats, the gear cooler is on the SUCTION side of the pump. Any kind of water pump is derated based on the amount of resistance to flow that the entire water path offers. A pump that can produce ~20psi of pressure, for example, is restricted by the outflow to a given extent. However, since AT BEST that pump can pull 14.7psi of VACUUM, while 20psi of PRESSURE, the vacuum (suction) side is FAR more critical. Restrictions on the SUCTION side are USUALLY where your problem is coming from - at least the biggest part of it. Taking out the primary H/Es and cleaning them does nothing for the suction side. "Online" cleaning like this works as well as it does because it gets BOTH the suction and pressure sides of the system. BTW, taking out the gear coolers is typically simpler than the primary H/Es. On my boat its four bolts for the cooler and the two raw water hoses and its out. The fuel cooler is less critical - most of them are simply large-bore tubes with a counter-bore outside for the fuel to flow around. While the fuel won't get "as cool" if its fouled, it also doesn't restrict flow unless its GROSSLY screwed up. |
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